Wednesday, 21 May 2014

0016 21st May - Haines Junction to Beaver Creek


A good night using the warm laundry room to sit and do blogs etc, and the wifi to post everything and get up to date – at last !!

Fine when we woke up, so packed up, had a chat to some other campers also en route to Alaska, and then went over to the local bakery for breakfast.  By then it was getting a bit late so we set off north (on the infamous Alcan Highway for the first time) towards Beaver Creek in the Yukon.

 
It was fine and clear when we set off, and after a while we came to Kluane Lake, which is an enormous body of water, most of which was still frozen.  We stopped beside it and had a play on the ice – I reckon in one photo Janet looks as though she could be in the Antarctic !!! The ice has an amazing crystalline structure, and it goes quite deep into the water.  In some places it is water on the surface, but you can see the ice crystals quite clearly underwater.  And there were big “crests” of ice along the shore where the wind had driven the ice up.

We then went further around the lake a went into the Parks Information office, which was excellent.  Apart from a bear skin which Janet sat in and compared hands / claws (?!), the girl there gave us a lot of information about the lake, the local glaciers and ice field up in the mountains, and stories about glaciers “surging” – That is when they can literally move long distances almost over night.  And outside, high up on the mountain side, through binoculars we could clearly see several groups of the amazingly agile Dall Sheep grazing. 

As can be seen from the photos, the clouds were starting to come down the mountain, and it was only about 4 deg C, yet we saw a couple of girls in a layby wearing shorts and flip flops !   When we commented to them, they said they were from Alaska, and used to it !   Hmmmm. 

Not far up the road, we stopped at a museum at Burwash Landing, which was the sight of one of the first trading posts in the area at the end of the 1890’s.  The museum was excellent, with some great displays of all the animals to be seen in the area, and we thoroughly enjoyed it.  They also had the (apparently) largest gold pan in the world outside !!

We passed though large areas of dead black spruce, apparently caused by a beetle.  It is killing a lot of the spruce, which is being replaced naturally by poplars.  Then we suddenly saw a moose – Janet’s first.  Normally they run away, but this one hung around for a while before he headed bush.  No antlers at this time of year, but you can just see the buds of his new rack just starting to grow – They will be full grown by about September.

Then not 10 minutes later, we spotted a black bear beside the road.  We were outside the car taking photos when he started to approach a bit too close !  So I leapt into the car, only to find Janet wasn;t in there !!  I have a video of it, which I will try to post up and give you the link, because it is quite hilarious. I am wondering where Janet is, meanwhile she got so excited she pressed the off button instead of the record button as the bear approached, and can be heard muttering in the back ground as the bear passes on the other side of the car !   But I honestly thought he was going to jump up on my driver’s door and have a look in – Despite the camera bouncing around a bit, I did manage to keep it running !!

Soon after that, the rain started, and it turned pretty wet as we approached Beaver Creek. There was one beautiful section where amidst all the cloud and rain, the sun was shining on a tall snow covered mountain in the distance, which made for quite a dramatic sight.   I decided that due to the rain, we would try to get a little cabin at Buckshot Betty’s where I stayed 2 years ago, but on arriving there we found they were fully booked, so we had to go to an RV park next door.  The rain held off while we set up camp, and we had a great dinner and a few Amber Ales at Buckshot Betty’s, before heading back to the van. The photo of the radio aerial with the sun just poking through the clud was actually taken at 9.30 pm as we headed back to the van – There is only about 4 hours of real darkness now.
 

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