Friday, 30 January 2015

0190 Chaiten to Puyuhuapi


28th Jan 2015

Woke up to a beautiful clear morning on the beach.  Another camper had come in after me and was a few hundred metres further up the beach.  Was feeling VERY stiff after yesterday’s exertions, to the extent that even getting in and out of Troopie is now kind of difficult.  Maybe I overdid it a bit by climbing that volcano ?  Never mind – it was worth it. 

Set off the few kms back into the small town of Chaiten when I topped off with (very expensive – Like $1.50 a litre !!) diesel, found a little shop where they had fresh bread as well as some alfoil which I had run out of, and then decided to head south out of town.  A very sharp mountain was visible due south of town and I found out that was Corcovado, at 2290 metres.  A very distinctive peak.

It was a beautiful morning to be on the road, with mountains to my right / west, so remember these snow covered peaks and glaciers you see today are NOT the Andes, but another  mountain range between me and the Pacific.  Came into Amarillo, and where I had to turn right to go south, I had to stop and wait for a gaucho who was riding into town on his horse – On the wrong side of the road !!  Then for the next 90 minutes I was driving along beside snow capped peaks and then some quite big glaciers, all part of the Parque Nacional Corcavado.  It really was a very pleasant drive, and even the dirt roads were not too bad – I was actually quite surprised how much sealed road is now in place.  The worst thing for me was that every time I wanted to take a photo, there were telephone wires between me and the mountains – Most inconsiderate of them to put the wires on the right hand side of the road instead of the left !!

The river that flows along the valley is fed by all the glaciers and snow up in the mountains, and is a very striking ice-blue, and by the time we reached the Yelcho bridge, it was a very wide and fast flowing river. Several cyclists were camping under the bridge, and I met a couple from New York who have rented a tiny little Citroen van and are travelling around in that for 6 weeks. 

Piet said a couple of days ago that much of the scenery reminded him of Switzerland, and I guess in some ways he is right – You get the snow capped peaks, but you also get rolling green fields and pastures that are full of cows.  No bells though !!  Quite a few sizeable bridges over the rivers too – Dirt roads but big bridges !

I knew there was a section of road somewhere ahead that is closed every day from 1 – 5 pm while they are doing major road repairs – But I just wasn’t sure where that section of road was, so I kept going in the hope that wherever it was I would get there before 1 pm.  Unfortunately I didn’t – I got there at 1.15 and I was the first car they stopped !  So I went back up the road only about 200 yards and found a little place fown a driveway that was a fishing and accommodation lodge down on a lake.  So rather than sitting out beside the road for nearly 4 hours, I asked them if I could park outside their buildings – They said yes but I would need to have a coffee or lunch or something.  Since it was lunch time and I was hungry, this was no great chore, so in I went and sat down to a big plate of pasta, a salad, and a couple of beers.  A great way to pass the time of day while waiting for the road to open again !  I went for a walk around their grounds after lunch and realised that my legs were continuing to get stiffer and stiffer from yesterday’s hike – I can now hardly walk properly even on a flat surface – Throw a bump or a step in there, and I need support to get up or down !!  A hot bath and some Deep Heat would be good – But as I can’t even find a hot shower at the moment, the bath is certainly not an option !  They even had wifi at the lodge – But unfortunately it was terrible – They even told me it was.  I eventually received a few emails on my phone, but couldn’t get the computer to hook up to my blog at all – Shame as that would have been a great chance to catch up.

By 10 to 5 I was back down at the roadworks, now with about 20 cars in front of me who had been waiting on the side of the road.  We set off through the extensive, and in many places quite rough, roadworks – They are pulling down the sides of the cliffs to widen the roads, and to do this they have to close the whole road every day.  One day it will be nice, but for the moment it is all a bit of a nuisance.

The couple of beers I had enjoyed for lunch had made me  bit sleepy, and I also think I am coming down with a cold – I have been sneezing and coughing all day.   So after about 30 minutes of driving through the roadworks, when I saw a camping sign, I dove off and ended up down by a very nice lake with only a couple of other people here.  I am now so stiff I can hardly get in and out of the back of the van, so I have been lying down resting since I arrived.  Hopefully I will not be as bad tomorrow !

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