We eventually got on our way, got the part from REI, and
headed south on the Alcan to Delta Junction, before forking right onto Hwy 4 to
Paxson and the Denali highway, which runs east to west across the country.
Before they opened the direct north / south road between Anchorage and
Fairbanks in the 1970’s, the Denali Highway was the only way for people to
reach the Denali Nat Park, so the old coaches and charabancs used to come along
this (still dirt and closed in winter) road.
I had heard of its scenic beauty from many people, so I was really
looking forward to driving it – The only issue was that the weather forecast
was for rain, and as it is a dirt road for 130 miles, I really wasn’t in the
mood for more mud after the Haul Road mud of last week !
Just before Delta Junction we crossed the Tanana river,
where the Alaska Pipeline has its own suspension bridge beside the road
bridge. Shortly after that we turned
into a historic site – Rika’s Roadhouse, and found this old log cabin facility
where in the early 1900’s a lady called Rika had run a road house to service
the road freight and business heading north from the lower 48. The only 2 ways to move were either by rough
road trail, or by river, and this and other road houses were ideally placed at
intervals all the way north. In this
instance, it was the site of a big action by truck drivers who refused to pay
ferry tolls imposed by the government to augment revenue lost because the
truckers weren’t using the government railroad to move their freight – All
sorts of wild and nefarious ways of “getting back at” the government were
employed !! It is good to see such
historic places being maintained and open to the public. Whilst having our picnic lunch at Rika’s, we
met Karl, Marie, and Kayla, from France / Canada, who are riding bicycles, and
towing 18 month old Kayla in a little trailer, all the way from Fairbanks to
South America !!! We shared our lunch
with them, and their story, before heading out.
But with luck we may bump into this charming couple again, although we
hope to be travelling a little faster than them !! You can follow them on their site www.enfant-a-bord.com, or www.facebook.com/EnfantABord. I take my hat off to people doing this journey in this way !!
Soon after leaving Rika’s, we turned onto Hwy 4, and
following the Delta River we cut through a pass through the majestic Alaska
Range of mountains. What was better, the
rain of Fairbanks had been left behind, and we were seeing more and more blue
sky, while the tops of the mountains were clearly visible. Just wonderful. We saw moose beside the road on a couple of
occasions, but as usual with moose, they ran away into the bush pretty quickly.
We crossed “Lower Suzy Q Creek” which reminded us of our
friend Suzy in Mandurah – Yes, there was an “Upper” Suzy Q Creek, but I wasn’t
quick enough with the camera !
Fortunately there was a “lower” one 2 minutes further up the road !!
The scenery just got better and better as we neared the
turn off onto the Denali Highway, and then we found Summit Lake. Still
partially frozen, and with the sky, clouds and mountains reflected in its
surface, this was just a(nother) breathtaking sight. Lots of little wooden
cabins dotted around the lake for the fishermen – just the most peaceful and
serene sight you can imagine. The photos
are better than a thousand words, but as always, even they do not do it
justice. You just have to see places
like this to be able to absorb the beauty.
Then we turned onto the Denali highway – And enjoyed the
first 30 miles on black top road. The
road wandered through tundra, with lakes and fishing cabins dotted along the
way, and with the every present mountains all around us. The skies were blue, the scenery stunning,
the temps warming up a little, our home was on our backs, and there was hardly
any traffic on the road – What more could one ever ask for ? Just as the dirt road started, there was a
sign to a Dept of Land Management (DLM) campsite at Tangle Lakes, so we turned
down there and found this delightful little campsite right by the lake. Denny the campground host welcomed us, and we
set up camp in the warm evening sunlight.
And no mosquitoes here yet !! (They will come !!) A yummy meal, and a glass of red – We went to
bed happy at the end of an increasingly pleasant day, and looked forward to the
adventure of the Denali Highway tomorrow.
Pics are here :- https://picasaweb.google.com/117739775480775657932/0030FairbanksToTangleLakes?authkey=Gv1sRgCLXFusyt9KP3OQ#
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