Monday, 9 June 2014

0033 Mon 9th June - Anchorage to Homer

Beautiful morning when we woke up in Eagle River north of Anchorage, with the sun shining………but still no bear !!   After a leisurely breakfast and pack up, we went for a walk down beside the river, but after 20 minutes or so the mosquitoes were getting REALLY bad, so we turned back and hit the road and headed into Anchorage for fuel and a grocery shop – We were almost out of both after our Prudhoe Bay and the Denali Highway. We were rewarded by getting our diesel for $1.05 per litre !! Then got our groceries and some beer and wine, reloaded the fridge etc, and then set of south out of town towards Homer on the Kenai Peninsula.

 Leaving Anchorage, it wasn’t far off lunch time and I suddenly saw something I recognised – Wee B’s hamburger Joint.  This is not a chain – just a single stand alone, privately owned – And last time I was here I had enjoyed a great hamburger here.  So we had to stop again, although we did force ourselves to share one this time !!  We had a ½ lb Buffalo burger (they also do Elk and Beef), with EVERYTHING, plus fries and onion rings, and it was SO good !  Juicy, hot, tasty – Everything a good burger should be.  When we left we spotted a car outside advertising that the driver (now inside Wee B’s) skinned caribou !!  Interesting !

It was then out along Turnagain arm – Again !  Unfortunately it still wasn’t really clear, but at least it was clear enough to see about 2/3rds of the mountains !Certainly better than last time – We will have one more chance when we come back into Anchorage in 5 or 6 days time ! There were even some kite surfers having some fun out there.

 Just past the end of Turnagain Arm we came to the Alaska Animal Conservation Centre.  Although the animals are in a kind of “open zoo” type of environment where they can roam large areas, most are part of a breeding programme with a view to restocking wild herds of endangered species.  This particularly applies to the musk oxen and the wood bison – while other animals were either injured and rescued, and may or may not be released dependent on the human dependency.  A red fox there was found injured, but because it is so friendly with humans they believe it had actually been kept as a pet some time in the past, and so cannot be released as it would not last 5 minutes in the wild.  It was also a chance for Janet to get up close with some of the animals she has seen, and some she hasn’t been lucky enough to see in the wild yet. In the wild, it is not only hit and miss, but also the animals often run away into the scrub as soon as they see you, so you rarely get an opportunity to watch them for a decent length of time.  The moose here were very friendly if a bit scraggly as they (like all other animals in Alaska) are currently shedding their woolly winter coats.  The porcupine was bigger than any we have seen beside the road, while the musk ox are just plain prehistoric looking !  There is a big bull in the paddock that a couple of years ago defeated another big bull, and when the defeated bull died 2 days later, they found that its skull had been completely split in two by the force of the impact of the two bulls repeatedly charging each other and butting heads !  The skull of the defeated bull is on display, while the victorious bull is still grazing out in the field, seemingly none the worse for wear !!

 It was good to see caribou with antlers – Most of the ones in the wild still have minimal antlers at the moment, and even the moose only have small stubs.  Then we found the bears, and while we have seen wild black bears, Janet hasn’t yet seen a grizzly, so it was good to see a couple in the water, swimming, and lying around in the sunshine playing in the grass.  There was also a tiny little new born musk ox  - Cute little fellow. He has to be separated from his mother because these animals come from way up north where the nutrients in the soil and plants are very different from those down south, and in the past a lot of the calves have died within the first 9 – 12 months. Now they have found that if they feed them a doctored formula instead of just leaving them to their regular mother’s milk, they are surviving. Once they are back in the wild there will be no problem.

 Lastly we found some wood bison – a breed separate from the more common and plentiful plains bison which was at one stage thought to be extinct. So these animals are being bred for release in the wild – And Janet found out that they have a temper – You don’t want to mess with a bison – especially a big old crotchety bull !!  Janet went up to this (not very robust) fence and tried to get up close and personal with this chap, and got a bit of a shock (to put it mildly) when he head butted the fence right beside Janet !! She was out of there very quickly, while I was laughing so hard I could hardly take any photos !  Got enough to capture the spirit of the moment, through !!

After that, it was back on the road south to Homer.  A Harley past us soon after we got going, with the lady on the back waving enthusiastically, so we assume she was an Aussie !!  Or really likes Aussies, anyway !!  Then it was on down through the prime salmon fishing areas of Cooper Landing, Russian River and so on – The rivers running off the glaciers are a dramatic blue green, and the road winds along beside rivers and lakes, heading out eventually to the ocean.  While the weather was reasonably nice, when we got closer to Homer where we should have been able to look west and see 3 or 4 active volcanoes in the Peninsula-Aleutian Range, the 10,000 foot tops were all obscured by cloud, unfortunately. Then, just as we dropped down into Homer, we could see the mountains ahead, and the 4 mile long Homer Spit reaching out into Kachemak Bay.  We were going to camp right at the very end of the 4 miles, and I couldn’t wait to get there – I love this place.

We drove through the main part of Homer and out onto the Spit, and found the campsite I had stayed in 2 years ago, ending up in almost the same camp site ! We immediately went round to Woody and Wendy’s site, to say hello.  I had meet them in Valdez 2 years ago, and after bumping into them a couple of times on the road, eventually found them in Homer, and they invited me to join them on their charter boat to go halibut fishing – If you read my blog of that trip you will remember we had a very successful and enjoyable fishing trip.  So it was great to catch up with them again this time, even though they were leaving in the morning to return home as they were at the end of their holiday. While in their van having a cup of tea, a couple of Orca fins were spotted out off the beach, so we all ran out to watch them – Although they disappeared soon after. 

By the time we had finished chatting, it was getting quite late – too late to be cooking supper, so Janet and I wandered up the Spit and found a great little restaurant called Captain Patty’s and had the most DELICIOUS grilled halibut.  Just superb.  Then it was time to turn in with the sound of the waves breaking on the beach right beside us – And a glorious sky with sun beams shining through the clouds taken at 9.30 at night.
 

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