Sunday, 15 June 2014

0038 15th June - Matanuska Glacier to Tok

Late get up this morning, and it was about 11 am before we headed up onto the road. Very pleasant night in a great little bush camp site.  The Glacier was only about ½ a mile up the road, so we were there almost before we got into 5th gear – And there was just this poorly signed steep dirt road going down past a house – We weren’t sure if it was the right road or not !!  Anyway, wandered down it for a couple of miles, through some very muddy sections, and over a very rickety looking bridge that I wasn’t sure if it would take our weight or not, and then came to a boom gate over the road, and a kind of house / shop with an “Open” sign in the window.  On going in, we were told this was the right place, it cost us $15 each (Senior’s rate !) as we were crossing private land, and it was about another 2 miles up the road. So off we went, and after winding along this dirt road, we finally came out in a car park over looking the magnificent glacier.

 
Matanuska glacier is different from others we have seen recently because it doesn’t end in the ocean, so you can reach it by car, walk to it, walk on it, and see it first hand.  I was totally stunned – There are so many things about a glacier that I had never expected.  Basically we walked a couple of miles onto the glacier until we started to feel that our boots and physical abilities were reaching their limits – Others had hired chains (or you could bring your own crampons if you were keen) and guides and could go further, but we limited ourselves. I won’t detail our walk – I will let the photos tell the story – But I will highlight some of the things that amazed us.
 
1)      Obviously, as you get closer to the glacier, it starts to get much colder (Duh !).

2)      From further away, a lot of the sides of the glacier look to be rock. In fact they are solid ice, and just have a thin layer of rock on top, probably from rock falls from mountains along the way, many miles back and many years ago.  It is actually sold ice all the way back to the car park.

3)      Where larger rocks lay, there is a mountain of ice underneath, in the shade side of the rock. Little rock, little mound, big rock, big mound.

4)      There are some large piles of what looks like rocks – But scratch the surface, and underneath is sold ice.

5)      There is a very sticky and gooey clay in a lot of places – Apparently it flows down from the surrounding mountains. Quite unexpected.

6)      It is only slippery if the ice is flat – As long as it is crunchy underfoot, it is not slippery !

7)      There was moss in one place – But it is not attached – It just sits on the surface and you can pick it up. Prehistoric ? First life in an ice field ?

We spent a couple of hours on the glacier, it was absolutely fantastic – One of several highlights of the trip so far.  This particular glacier is 4 miles wide, and is 27 miles long, back into the Chugach mountains.  Unfortunately it is retreating, like many others.

A quick wrap for lunch in the car park and we headed back to the road and on towards Tok and the Canadian Border.  Soon after leaving, we pulled over for a last overlook of the glacier as we climbed through a pass, and a family who were having lunch there pointed out 3 dall sheep way up on the cliffs.  These sheep live on steep cliffs to avoid predators, and it is always amazing to see them perched precariously on cliffs.  This family with two little girls had been fishing for the weekend and were on their way home, but they were fun and friendly, and had these hilarious animal plates for their lunch that we just had to take a photo of !!  

This Glenn Hwy heading east across the bottom of Alaska is so very scenic – although having said that, there aren’t many roads in Alaska that aren’t scenic !!  But all the way you are surrounded by mountains – first the Chugach to the south as you head east, and then as you swing north towards Glennallen you have the Wrangell mountains to your east on your right, while the Chugach mountains are still behind you, and the Talkeetna mountains in the west on your left.  We were fortunate that while we did have rain and some amazing black cloud formations, a lot of the mountains were visible, with not only the 12000 ft Mt Drum in the foreground, but also the 16,000 ft Mt Wrangell in the distant background.

Along the way we had a moose with her mooselet crossing the road – These photos aren’t too good – Its hard braking, changing gear, putting on emergency flashers, trying to keep the engine quiet, making sure no one behind is going to crash into you, AND taking photos !! Sometimes they work, and sometimes they don’t !!  But when the baby tried to jump the guard rail, it was a bit worrying as there was a steep slope on the other side !  But she made it OK.   Then there was a lake with Trumpeter Swans on – Quite a lot of them – Mostly on the far side of the lake though !!  You could see them with the binocs !!  Shortly after that we spotted a moose off in a pond with his head under water eating all the yummy (to a moose) weeds and plants on the bottom.  Apparently a moose can feed underwater for a minute or more without breathing.  Anyway, after a quick look at us, this one figured we were far enough away not to be a threat, so he just carried on grazing. 

Also as we came into Tok, there was an ATV (All Terrain Vehicle) zipping along beside the road with two kids on.  Most roads around towns, even Anchorage, have dirt trails beside them, and unlicensed ATV’s seem to be allowed to be driven on these trails by very young people, usually without helmets or anything. Odd to us, but totally accepted round here !!

Finally into Tok at about 6.45 pm and into a great campsite. Laundry on as soon as we arrived, I pitched camp, and then Janet prepared a great steak that was SO good – We are buying a “New York” cut, and it really is a delicious steak – Although we are not sure what cut is the equivalent in Aus. Certainly better than rump…   Will have to find out !!  Then typed my blog and downloaded the photos, and will try to get them up and posted in the morning – Too tired tonight as it is now ten minutes to midnight !! And still daylight, of course !!

Tomorrow we leave Alaska, and head over the Top of the World Highway to Chicken and then Dawson City.  Sad to leave Alaska, but we have done pretty well. There are only a couple of roads we have not been on - One to Seward, and one from Delta Junction to Tok – Apart from them, I think we have driven every road !!  So we agree we have now “done” Alaska for the moment – Yet still only scratched the surface of this amazing part of the world.  If I get back here again, there are still places to go and great things to see. I enjoy it so much.  But for now it is time to head into Canada and explore some more unknown country !
 

 

 

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